Things I Wish I Knew Before Through-Hiking the Enchantments

The Enchantments, located in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness in Washington, is a hiker's paradise. The jagged peaks, Gatorade blue alpine lakes and other-worldly splendor draws crowds every year. It's a bucket list destination for many (myself included). This area is my favorite in all of Washington state - the North Cascades being a very close second.

To camp in the Enchantments, you need to secure a coveted permit, which can be obtained through a lottery system. There's a catch though! The lottery is exactly what it sounds like - thousands enter, and nearly everyone loses. I think I read somewhere (so don't quote me), the odds of scoring a core permit, which means you can camp anywhere throughout the Enchantments, is around 2%. That's not very good odds. Every year, the outdoor community holds their breath, and most of the time, we commiserate together. 

Then, the planning begins.

Since getting a permit is nearly impossible to score, many opt to still go, but they do an absolutely grueling through-hike. From start to finish, the hike is more than 18 miles (I clocked 22 miles when I did it, so expect it to be longer than you thought). You'll also gain around 4,500 feet in elevation if you start at Stuart Lake trailhead. It's worth it though! I would recommend doing this more popular route, Stuart Lake to Snow Lake, because you'll save yourself some elevation. Personally, I also very much dislike the trail from Snow Lake to the core. 

After losing the lottery again and again, I decided (like many do) to just do it. So, I set out on my birthday last year in hopes of finally checking the Enchantments off my hiking bucket list. 

Was it amazing? Yes! Are there things I wish I would have known before going? Also, yes!

Here are a few things I wish I would have known before I went, so you don't make the same mistakes I did. 

Top Tips

Firstly, if you go in early summer, there will be snow! I think many people see photos and videos on Instagram and don't realize the high alpine environment doesn't thaw out until late summer. Don't be fooled. The lakes are gorgeous, but they are also covered in snow until July. If you're hoping for crystal clear lakes and clear trails, wait until late July or August. 

If you go too early, the pass you will have to take on, known as Aasgard Pass, will be a little spicey. I'll get to this a little later, but it's very important you know the route before you head out. There are some hidden dangers, especially ascending up Aasgard Pass. If you don't read any further, remember this - please stay left when climbing up Aasgard Pass! If you go during the early season, you will likely need micro spikes, an ice ax and gaiters. This gear will add to your pack, but they are necessary if you want to be safe.

Speaking of gear - let's start there. 

Weight is important. When you are packing, ask yourself one question, "Is this item necessary?" Trust me, you might want to rethink some of those heavier items. A light set up is going to be your friend. Your knees are going to be hurting around mile 13. The elevation going up isn't what's going to get you (if you have a similar experience as I did), it's the pounding your knees will take when you descend from Lake Viviane. A lighter pack is going to make for a better experience. 

With that said, there are items you need. 

Just to be clear, always pack the 10 essentials. Items you could (and probably should) leave behind are stoves, camping chairs, tripods, snowshoes, etc. I packed my stove so I could enjoy coffee by the lakes. The reality is, you won't want to linger very long because the hike takes the whole day. I ended up wishing I would have left it behind. A coffee sounded good, but not that good. It wasn't too much weight, but every ounce counts. 

The things that were absolutely necessary for me were a map and micro spikes. I ventured out on June 20 and there was considerable snow, both going up Aasgard and throughout the core. I also highly recommend a satellite communicator. I'll link the one I use below. The inReach provides the safety blanket I need on longer hikes. I know if I get into trouble, I'll be able to call for help. 

When you are hiking through the core, it's easy to get turned around if you don't know where you're going. There are cairns that mark the way through the core, but they can be difficult to find if you don't know where to look. Some may also be covered in snow, so it's best to know your way. I poured over maps before the hike, and I downloaded a copy to take with me. It was helpful, especially when I got to Perfection Lake. 

Water is usually the heaviest item in your pack, so bring a filtration system. There are lots of water sources along the way, which means you won't have to worry about running out of water. 

There also isn't much sun protection in the core. I'd recommend layers, sunscreen, lip protection, sunglasses and a hat. One of the most beautiful aspects of the core is how barren it is, like walking on the moon. Jagged peaks surround you, and it's something you have to see to believe. The entire time I was in the core, I had a huge smile on my face. I just kept thinking to myself, "how is this real?"

Lessons learned

You often hear about how difficult Aasgard Pass is, but I honestly didn't it find it that strenuous. You'll gain about 2,000 feet in under a mile, but it's over in no time, and the sights along the way are literally jaw-dropping. Just pace yourself. My motto when I'm climbing is always the same: "one foot in front of the other." It reminds me to keep going. That and I also say to myself, "objects in motion stay in motion." It's like a little inside joke to myself. I know if I stop for too long, it'll be harder to keep going.

I don't think I can mention this enough, so here we go again, but DO NOT GO RIGHT up Aasgard Pass. Stay to the left of the rock formation in the middle. There is a hidden waterfall, and people have died falling into it. Also, scree is pretty common when climbing up. Be aware of falling rocks. I wore a helmet just in case, and I was glad I had it on. 

The hardest part of the hike for me was the hike out from Lake Viviene. It is absolutely brutal on your joints - and it's so long. The constant, prolonged pounding really did a number on me. I think trekking poles probably would have made this section more enjoyable, but that's a personal preference you can think about when you're planning your trip. It's not a nice, mellow descent. It's long, jarring steps through rocks and boulders. It will take more time than you think!

The second worst part was being able to see the parking lot at Snow Lake from the trail. Once you can see it, you're still nowhere near it. Those switchbacks are a terrible tease. Don't say I didn't warn you.

Training hikes

To get ready for this hike, I did a lot of stairs and elevation hikes. I picked hikes that would really push my quads, and I think that worked pretty well. You'll need to be patient on this hike and also prepared for a little pain. 

If you can find a great stair climb, do it! I love Richmond Beach because there are plenty of hills to run and a get staircase at the Saltwater Park. 

Logistics

If you are doing the through-hike, you'll park and end at different trailheads. Stuart Lake trailhead and Snow Lake trailhead are miles apart, so you'll need to think through how you'll get from one to the other. I was solo and hitch-hiked back to my car, but I probably wouldn't recommend doing that.

If you have multiple people in your party, leave one care at each trailhead. 

If you do it solo like I did, consider having a friend pick you up or coordinate a shuttle. Reservations can be made in advance. 

I got to the trailhead around 4:30 a.m. and started out around 4:45 a.m. It was perfect because I ended when it was still light out. I really enjoyed not having to sit in the parking lot in the dark. In total, it took me about 13 hours from trailhead to trailhead. I did stop a lot to take photos though. Your time may vary - slower or faster. I saw plenty of trail runners, which was astounding. I aspire to be them. 

Another thing you will want to do is read trip reports. Learn from others and take note. You can read about conditions, trail issues, road closures, etc. by visiting WTA.com and reading recent trip reports. Don't skip this step! Knowledge is power in the backcountry.

Remember to leave no trace and have fun when you're hitting the trails. It's such a fun trip, and I'm really proud of myself for completing this hike. I highly recommend attempting it if you're in good shape and want a challenge.

If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to reach out and ask. I honestly can't wait to go back and do it again!

Items I'd consider bringing: 
Garmin inReach - a great way to stay connected for check-ins and to have in case of emergency.
HydraPax water filtration - as I mentioned, you will not want to carry all your water on you. It'll make your pack way too heavy.

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