What it was really like hiking The Wave, how the permit lottery works, and all the places we squeezed into one very hot, slightly chaotic Southwest road trip.

There are a few places I’ve dreamed about visiting for so long that they almost stopped feeling real. The Wave was one of them.

I had seen the viral photos: sandstone folded into ribbons of orange, red and yellow, with lines curving through the rock as though someone had painted the desert by hand. I applied for the permit lottery year after year and got very accustomed to losing.

And then, finally, I opened an email that said:
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“Congratulations.”

I had won a permit to hike The Wave. There was just one tiny problem. It was for July.
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I had never really experienced the Southwest before this trip. My adventures in Washington usually involve moody mist, endless shades of green and enough elevation gain that make my quads question my hobbies.

This was going to be...different.

We flew into Las Vegas, rented a Jeep we affectionately named Ruby the Rubicon, and headed into a landscape that genuinely felt like another planet.
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Over the next few days, we hiked through rivers and slot canyons, sprinted toward overlooks trying to catch sunset, watched lightning roll across the desert, missed a sunrise, abandoned a few plans, accidentally discovered others and stood inside a landscape I had been dreaming about for years.

It wasn’t a perfectly executed itinerary. It was better.

First: How Do You Get a Permit for The Wave?

You cannot simply show up and hike The Wave.

The Wave is located in Coyote Buttes North, within the Paria Canyon–Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness, and access is strictly limited to protect the fragile landscape.

Permits are issued through Recreation.gov, with both an advance lottery and a daily lottery.
The advance lottery opens four months ahead of the hiking month and currently awards permits for up to 48 people or 12 groups per day, whichever comes first.

The daily lottery is intended for last-minute permits. You enter using a mobile device while physically within the designated geofence near the permit area, and the lottery currently awards up to 16 people or four groups per day.

That means only 64 people per day are permitted to visit Coyote Buttes North.

And yes, that makes finally getting the email feel a little like winning the actual lottery.
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I had applied at least once a year for several years. Every time, I lost. When I applied for July, I fully expected the same result. Instead: “Congratulations.” Cue immediate screaming and a garbled text to my best friend asking if she was down for an insane trip.

A Few Things to Know Before Applying
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Lottery application fees and permit fees are separate, and application fees are nonrefundable. Permits also can’t simply be rescheduled if your plans change.

Pay close attention when listing alternate permit holders, too. Permits aren’t casually transferable, and the permit holder or an approved alternate needs to be present with the group.

My biggest advice?

Be flexible.

If your schedule allows, apply for multiple possible dates. Consider traveling outside peak seasons. And absolutely have a Plan B, because this entire corner of Utah and Arizona is filled with places worth exploring.
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The Wave might be the dream, but it is definitely not the only dreamlike landscape around Kanab.

Las Vegas to Kanab: Starting With Valley of Fire

Our trip began in Las Vegas, where we picked up Ruby the Rubicon and immediately headed toward Utah.

Our first stop was Valley of Fire State Park.

And if you’re driving from Las Vegas toward Kanab, I highly recommend making this detour.
The red sandstone seemed to glow, the roads twisted through enormous rock formations, and suddenly I understood exactly why photographers love this part of the country.

We drove into Valley of Fire in the middle of the day — again, not ideal — so instead of risking heat stroke, we stuck to a couple of short hikes and made selective photo stops along the way.
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We were also greeted by desert bighorn sheep, which was such a cool surprise. They casually scrambled across the rocks like gravity was merely a suggestion and literally seemed to pose when we pulled out our phones. It was my first clue that the desert operates by slightly different rules.

Why We Stayed in Kanab

If you’re planning a similar trip, Kanab makes an incredible home base.

Obviously, it puts you within reach of The Wave, but I didn’t realize until we arrived just how many other adventures surround the town.

Zion National Park is close enough for an impromptu visit. Buckskin Gulch, Wire Pass, White Pocket and other incredible desert landscapes are nearby. Page, Arizona, is also within road-trip distance.

Basically, if you are an outdoors person, Kanab is dangerous because suddenly you need approximately 17 more vacation days.

We also had one of our favorite meals of the trip at Wild Thyme Bistro. After traveling all day, sitting down for an excellent dinner felt incredibly luxurious.
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Then we went to bed early, because the next morning was the entire reason we had planned this trip in the first place.

The Wave: The Day I’d Been Waiting Years For

Our first full day in the Southwest was Wave day. I woke up knowing: Today is the day.

​I was so stoked the early alarm clock didn’t bother me one bit.

Because we were visiting in July, heat was one of our biggest concerns. We left our VRBO before sunrise with a very specific plan: start hiking in the dark, enjoy the coolest hours of the morning and try to head back toward the trailhead by around 10 a.m., before the desert really started baking. The route to The Wave is not your typical hiking trail. There aren’t signs every few feet reassuring you that you’re headed in the right direction.

From the Wire Pass trailhead, we moved through sandy washes, across open desert and eventually over huge expanses of sandstone, navigating using landmarks, route information and offline maps.

The hike is often described as roughly six miles round trip.

Six miles doesn’t sound intimidating. But six miles with no shade, no water, limited cell service and summer desert temperatures is a completely different equation.
This is not a place to underestimate.

And yet...

Walking through that landscape in the early morning was unbelievable.

The colors changed as the sun climbed higher — oranges, yellows, reds and soft pinks glowing across the sandstone. Everything felt wide open. Coming from Washington, where so many trails disappear beneath tree cover and mist, the exposure felt almost surreal.

And then we reached it.

Seeing The Wave for the First Time

I wish I could relive this day. There really isn’t another way to say it.

The sandstone looked like a painting come to life. Lines flowed through the formations in perfect waves, making solid rock somehow appear fluid. Around every corner was another formation I wanted to photograph. Photos make this place look incredible. But they don’t capture what it feels like to stand there. Part of that feeling comes from the landscape itself. Part of it comes from the quietness of the landscape, like a secret you don't want to share. And part of it, for me, came from all those years of opening rejection emails and trying again anyway.

Some places really do live up to the dream. The Wave was one of them.

We explored the main section of the Wave. I did a quick outfit change, and then we headed back, smiles plastered on our faces.

What I Would Bring to The Wave

Despite its relatively modest mileage, The Wave deserves serious preparation. For a summer hike, I would bring:

• More water than you think you’ll need (we had about 3 liters each)
• Electrolytes
• Sun protection
• Offline maps
• The navigation information provided with your permit
• A GPS or satellite communication device, if you have one
• Plenty of food and snacks
• Appropriate footwear
• A sunhoodie
• A healthy respect for the desert

​Monsoon season adds another consideration. Storms can develop quickly, flash flooding is possible, and dirt roads can become muddy or impassable.

Your permit gives you permission to hike. It does not guarantee that conditions will be safe. Know when to change plans.

The Day After The Wave: An Impromptu Trip to Zion

Here’s where our carefully planned Southwest itinerary started becoming a little less... carefully planned.

With The Wave officially checked off the bucket list, we suddenly had room to ask the best possible vacation question: What should we do today?

Because Zion was so accessible from Kanab, we decided to head into the park. And I’m so glad we did.

Hiking The Narrows

Our first adventure was The Narrows, hiking bottom-up from the Temple of Sinawava.
The first mile follows the paved Riverside Walk before the “trail” essentially becomes a river walk.

From there? You literally walk upstream between enormous canyon walls. It is such a strange and beautiful hiking experience, definitely unlike anything I had done before.

We rented water shoes, a walking stick and waterproof backpacks inside the park, and I was very glad we did. The rocks underneath the water are uneven and slippery, and the walking stick made moving upstream significantly easier.

For the bottom-up route, you can simply turn around whenever you’ve had enough or continue as far as Big Spring, making the full outing roughly 10 miles round trip.

Conditions matter enormously here. Rain and flash-flood potential can make the canyon dangerous, so always check current conditions before heading in. Do not enter the canyon when conditions aren’t safe.

One thing I also didn’t realize was that during monsoon season, the water may be far from crystal clear. When we visited, it was churned up and brownish in color. So, if you’re arriving with visions of perfectly curated Instagram photos of yourself wandering through crystal-clear water...You may want to manage those expectations.
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Personally, I still thought the experience was incredibly cool.

Canyon Overlook at Sunset

That evening, we headed to Canyon Overlook Trail for sunset. This hike is such a vibe.

I’m usually attracted to hikes that involve some amount of unnecessary suffering, so a roughly one-mile round-trip trail with a huge payoff felt almost suspiciously easy. But sometimes you don’t need to destroy your quads to earn a memorable view.

We reached the overlook before sunset and stayed after the sun disappeared behind the canyon walls. The clouds lit up, the canyon changed colors and we lingered until the light began to fade.

Then we pulled out our headlamps and hiked back in the dark.

Add this one to your sunset-hike list.

And Then There Were the Pink Sand Dunes...

Don’t hate me.

I was so excited about Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park. But I was...underwhelmed.
Maybe it was because we missed sunrise by a few minutes. Maybe it was because it had rained the day before. Maybe I simply needed more coffee. But it didn’t hit for me the way I expected it to.

I can absolutely see why families love it, especially if you’re interested in sandboarding or off-road adventures. It just wasn’t one of my favorite stops. Perhaps I need to go back. You know. For research.

The One Place I Regret Skipping: White Pocket

If there is one unfinished piece of this trip, it is White Pocket. I wanted to go so badly. But the road conditions made us nervous, particularly after our rental company informed us we would be charged $350 if we took Ruby off-roading. Ruby (and my wallet) deserved better. So we skipped it. Looking back, I think hiring a guide would have been the right move. At the time, committing to a full-day tour felt like overkill.

Now? I still think about White Pocket.
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Next time, I’d love to find a way to get there later in the day, photograph it around golden hour and sunset and actually take my time exploring. Because apparently winning one impossible-to-get desert permit was not enough to satisfy me.

Heading to Page, Arizona
For the final part of our trip, we left Kanab and headed toward Page, Arizona. Page gave us two of the most recognizable stops of the entire road trip: Horseshoe Bend and Upper Antelope Canyon.

They were both undeniably beautiful.

They were also very different experiences.

Horseshoe Bend: Proof Not Every View Requires Suffering

I say this as someone who generally prefers her viewpoints accompanied by several thousand feet of elevation gain and at least one moment where I question why I do this for fun. Horseshoe Bend is essentially the opposite.

The overlook is reached by a roughly 1.5-mile round-trip walk from the parking area. Easy. Except we were running late for sunset. So, instead of casually strolling toward the overlook like normal tourists, we found ourselves basically sprinting down the gravel trail while the sky changed colors.

The scale of Horseshoe Bend surprised me. I had seen so many photos that I expected it to feel overly familiar in person. It didn’t. We watched sunset while a storm moved across the desert and lightning flashed in the distance, adding a level of drama I certainly hadn’t ordered but very much appreciated.

Sometimes roadside overlooks really do give main-character energy.

Antelope Canyon: Beautiful... But Not Quite My Style

We also toured Upper Antelope Canyon. I have slightly complicated feelings about this one.
The canyon itself was absolutely stunning. Light pours into the narrow sandstone passages, illuminating curves and textures that barely look real.

I’m glad I saw it. But the experience felt rushed. There were a lot of people, our time for photos was limited and I found myself wanting to slow down and actually absorb the place.
If crowds don’t bother you, you may have a completely different experience. But I learned something about myself on this trip: I’d rather have a little more space and freedom to explore. In hindsight, I wish we’d spent that time exploring Buckskin Gulch instead.

Which sounds suspiciously like an excuse for another trip.

What I Would Do Differently

This trip taught me that the Southwest rewards flexibility.

• I wouldn’t try to cram quite as much into each day next time.
• I’d leave more room for weather.
• I’d hire a guide for White Pocket.
• I’d explore Buckskin Gulch.
• I’d still sprint to Horseshoe Bend for sunset because apparently learning lessons has limits.
• And I would absolutely base myself in Kanab again.

Most importantly, I wouldn’t try to make the trip perfect.

Some of my favorite memories happened because our original plan changed.

The Southwest Completely Changed My Perspective

I expected to love The Wave. I didn’t expect to fall quite so hard for the Southwest itself. It was completely different from the landscapes where I normally adventure.

Washington gives me mountains disappearing into clouds, alpine lakes, moss, evergreens and trails that climb relentlessly upward.

The Southwest gave me heat, dust, sandstone, lightning and a horizon that seemed to stretch forever.

Our trip wasn’t perfect. We missed a sunrise. We skipped places I still think about. We changed plans on a whim. We rushed toward sunsets. We got hot, dusty and tired.
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And I would do it all over again.

I hike a lot, which means I ask a lot from my gear. I want pieces that are comfortable, dependable, easy to use, and worth the space they take up in my pack. This is not a sponsored list, these are simply the things I genuinely love, use constantly, and keep reaching for because they have proven themselves.

For background, I have always loved the outdoors, but I grew up in Ohio where foothills feel like mountains. When I moved out to Seattle in my early twenties, my mind was blown by the easily accessible mountains and epic terrain. When I started hiking, I had no idea what I was doing. I hiked in cotton. I didn’t own hiking boots. I had no clue what the 10 essentials were or why I should pack them. I was out in nature for the vibes.

Today, I have a bit more experience under my belt, and I’ve learned a lot. My goal is to climb the five volcanoes in Washington, and so far, I’ved check off three – Mount Rainier, Mount Adams and Mount Saint Helens.
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Okay, now back to gear…

Some things are absolutely worth investing in, especially when they provide safety, comfort, or confidence in the backcountry. Other things? They just need to work how you would expect them to work. After enough miles, early mornings, unexpected weather, slick snowfields, and solo hikes, I have learned where I personally like to spend more—and where I am perfectly happy keeping it simple.

My cheap headlamp is one of those items I always carry, but I absolutely did not feel the need to spend a fortune on it. A headlamp is part of the 10 essentials—the basic items you should consider carrying whenever you head into the backcountry or even out for a day hike—and I use mine constantly. But for me, this is one area where the ultra-premium version is not always worth it. Mine provides light, which is what I need for alpine starts.

I know lighter headlamps exist. I know there are models with fancier settings, brighter beams, and better red-light modes. And to all the night photography folks: I am sorry. I know red light matters to you. But for the way I hike, I care most that my headlamp is reliable, easy to throw in my pack, and does the job when I need it. I do not think the ounces saved are worth breaking the bank, so this is one of the places where I happily go budget-friendly.

​I love my PrAna Zion Cargo hiking pants. Truly. They make great pants, and these have become some of my favorites because they fit me so well. I have very long legs, and if you also have long legs, you know the struggle of finding hiking pants that do not feel awkwardly short or weirdly proportioned. I absolutely hate pants that ride straight up into my business – if you know you know – and that has been sadly harder to find than I would like to admit.

These work for me because the rise is higher, the length is right, and the adjustable waist straps are such a good feature. Simply put, they are functional and cute.

They stay comfortable over long miles, they move well, and they make me feel like I am not constantly tugging or readjusting my clothes on the trail. The only real downside is that they do not convert into shorts, which would make them even more versatile. But even with that, they are still one of my most-worn pieces of hiking clothing.

For reference, I wear a size 4 in these pants. I’m 5’5 and around 122 pounds.

My Mountain Hardwear sun hoodie can do no wrong in my book. This thing goes with me everywhere. It is lightweight, breathable, easy to layer, and it protects me from the sun without making me feel like I am overheating. I love gear that solves multiple problems at once, and this hoodie does exactly that.
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On exposed trails, high-elevation days, desert hikes, when you’re being absolutely cooked by snow-reflection, or any route where shade is limited, I want sun protection that I do not have to think too hard about. This is that piece for me. It is comfortable enough that I actually want to wear it, which is half the battle with sun protection. If a piece of gear is annoying, I will avoid it. This one is the opposite: I pack it almost automatically. The only problem might be that I wear it too much. It’s literally falling apart at the seams.

One investment I absolutely do not regret is my Garmin inReach. I do a lot of solo hiking, and carrying it gives me real peace of mind. It is one of those purchases that felt expensive at first, but the more I used it, the more I knew it was worth it for me. My husband also likes it since I have a way of getting ahold of him if something goes wrong.

I like being able to send messages to loved ones, check weather reports, and know that I have a way to call for help. I hope I never need the emergency features, but I am grateful to have them. When I am alone on a trail, especially in areas with limited or no cell service, that extra layer of communication changes how I feel. It does not replace good decision-making, preparation, or turning around when conditions are not right—but it is a tool I am very glad to have.

Microspikes are another item I use all the time, especially when I am hiking early in the morning, moving over icy terrain, or crossing firm snow that is not especially steep but is hard and slick. They give me more security on terrain where regular shoes would feel sketchy, and they can make a huge difference on shoulder-season hikes or high-alpine routes.

If you want to get into more advanced routes in the high alpine, you will likely need traction at some point.

Note: Microspikes are not the same as crampons, and it is important to understand when each tool is appropriate. I like microspikes for lower-angle terrain that is icy, packed, or slick—not for steep, technical snow where different gear and skills are required.

My biggest advice is to practice putting them on before you need them. Do it before you are standing on a cold slope trying to figure out which way they face. Gear is only useful if you know how to use it. Also, I’ve heard some horror stories about the points and chains, so check to make sure they are working and intact. 

Layers are so important when you’re hiking, especially in the Pacific Northwest where weather can be volatile. I recently purchased the North Face Summit Series Hybrid Hoodie, and I absolutely love it. It’s such a good mid-layer. I don’t roast in it on long approaches, but it keeps me warm when the wind starts whipping. I highly recommend it if you’re looking for a lightweight layer with versatility.

If you want to get into mountaineering or more serious snow travel, an ice axe is another tool you may eventually need. But this is not a piece of gear to buy, clip to your pack, and assume you are ready. You need to practice with it before taking it on a hard hike or climb.
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Being able to arrest yourself is incredibly important. If you fall on a snow slope, you need to know how to stop that fall quickly, because things can get out of control fast. An ice axe can be a critical safety tool, but only if you have learned how to use it. For me, this falls firmly into the category of gear that deserves education, practice, and respect. I’ve taken a few courses on glacier travel and crevasse rescue, and I highly recommend taking courses.
If you’re looking for great instructors, I recommend Alpine Ascents.

I used to hike in hiking or mountaineering boots on every trail, but I have since converted to trail runners. I feel faster in them, they are more comfortable for me, and I love how lightweight they are. For long days, especially when I want to move efficiently, trail runners make hiking feel easier and more natural.

The downside, of course, is ankle support. Trail runners are not going to give you the same structure as traditional hiking boots, so you’ll have to pay more attention to your footwork. If I know there will be snow on a route, I sometimes start in my trail runners (especially if the approach is long) and then change into my boots, but for most of the hiking I do, I much prefer trail runners to clunky boots overall.
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My favorites are my La Sportiva trail runners. They have become one of those pieces of gear I can hardly imagine hiking without. Once I found shoes that worked for my feet and my hiking style, it changed everything.

What You Pack is as Important as the Pack You PickA terribly fitting pack is most definitely going to ruin your hiking experience. Invest in a good backpack. I’ve had packs that have dug into my hips, increased back pain, and just genuinely didn’t work for me.
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When I found Osprey, that changed. I love Osprey packs, and I have used and abused my Osprey pack. I will be buying another very soon.

Before you purchase a pack, I recommend getting fitted at your local REI. For me, my short torso makes it hard to find a pack that works for me. I’ve been eyeing this Osprey pack specifically because I want versatility – a pack that I can do day hikes with, tour, or take with me on a longer trek.

Everyone has their own preference for gear, but this is the stuff I pack the most.
If you have questions about what to pack, feel free to reach out.

At the end of the day, the best gear is the gear that works for you: the things that fit your body, your trails, your goals, and your comfort level. For me, these are the pieces I love most—and the ones I would buy again.

10 Essentials:

• Map
• Navigation
• Sunglasses and sunscreen (sun protection)
• Extra clothing
• Headlamp/flashlight
• First-aid supplies
• Firestarter
• Emergency shelter
• Knife
• Extra food and hydration

About Mt. Saint Helens

Mt. Saint Helens is one of the most iconic volcanoes in the Pacific Northwest, currently standing at 8,363 feet, and it’s one of only five active volcanoes in Washington. Its height was dramatically reduced by the catastrophic eruption on May 18, 1980, which was the deadliest volcanic event in U.S. history, resulting in the largest landslide ever recorded and a lateral blast that reshaped the mountain and surrounding landscape.

Trip Details: Worm Flows Trailhead, Distance, and Elevation Gain

Our trip began at the Worm Flows Trailhead, the standard winter route for Mt. Saint Helens. The total distance clocked in at about 12 miles—longer than what Alltrails lists, so be prepared for some extra steps. With an elevation gain of roughly 5,700 feet, this hike is a serious workout but doesn’t require advanced mountaineering skills. Instead, it’s a long, steady slog up the mountain, perfect for those who enjoy pushing their limits. In the winter, your pack will be heavier, carrying extra gear, layers, water and snacks, so prepare to haul a little more weight than you would in the summer months.

Sno-Park permits may be purchased online between November 1 and April 30. The route leaves from the Marble Mountain Sno-Park. If you don’t have a permit to park, you will get a ticket.

A Mount St. Helens Climbing Permit is required for each person, for each day, year-round. Permits can be purchased in advance at Recreation.gov. From December 1 to March 31, there is no limit on the number of climbers per day. During this time, permits are free of charge and self-issued at the trailheads.

Snowpack, Weather and Winter Equipment

We took advantage of a sunny weather window—a rare treat for the season—to make our ascent. Choosing the right day is half the battle for a winter climb, and luck was definitely on our side. The wind was expected to be low, which is another variable to pay close attention to when you’re planning a trip. 

​Winter conditions can change in a flash, so checking recent trip reports and weather forecasts is absolutely crucial. Trail conditions, snow coverage, and avalanche risk are all things to keep an eye on. Reading up on other hikers’ experiences helped me plan for what to expect and stay safe. I highly recommend always looking at trip reports from others on apps like AllTrails and Washington Trails Association.

If you’re planning this hike, pack for variable conditions—snow can be deep in places, and icy in others. Read trip reports and plan ahead. When we went, we knew the warm weather was melting and then refreezing the snow, so we expected icy conditions to start the hike. As the sun baked the snowfield, we knew it would soften up.

There are several ways to tackle the winter route: snowshoeing, skiing, or hiking with proper gear. Given the sturdy trail conditions and minimal snow, we opted for micro spikes. Many people in recent trip reports mentioned packing crampons, but we decided to leave them and relied on our micro spikes. Crampons are great for steeper climbs, so we felt confident we wouldn’t have to have them for this trip. The route we planned to take was relatively mellow, along a ridge and open snowfield. Mountaineering boots, gaiters, and an ice axe, and great to consider.

Challenges and Highlights

We started early in the morning before the sun came up to maximize daylight and to get above the tree line in time for alpenglow. Bring a headlamp even if you don’t plan to start in the dark.

The ascent was steady, with the summit visible for much of the climb. Reaching the top, we enjoyed a well-earned lunch with 360-degree views stretching as far as the eye could see.
When you get to the top, be aware of cornices. There are flags alerting climbers to danger, so please heed the warning. Stay back! The last thing you want to do is fall into an active volcano. The rim is alluring, but don’t get too close.

The descent was fun, as snow softened and conditions got slushy. We were able to glissade much of the way down. The chutes weren’t very fast given the snow conditions, but it saved our knees some pounding. We also had to watch out for rocks since the snowpack was so low.

Make no mistake: this hike is grueling, especially the final push to the summit. There are no crevasses to cross along the standard climbing routes, which makes the climb less technical and safer for those training for other peaks. There are crevasses on the mountain, but the risk is less than other Washington volcanoes.

The panoramic views were spectacular, and the sense of accomplishment at the end was well worth the effort. I have wanted to climb all the volcanoes in Washington, and this adventure gets me one step closer.

A Great Training Climb

With its demanding elevation gain, Mt. Saint Helens is ideal for anyone prepping for more ambitious climbs. It’s a fantastic training hike for building endurance and getting comfortable with winter equipment in a lower risk environment.

Climbing Mt. Saint Helens in winter was a truly memorable experience. The perfect spring-like weather and spectacular summit views made the journey unforgettable.

Every year, thousands of hopeful backpackers flock to recreation.gov, vying for a coveted permit to camp in the Enchantments. With only about 10% of applicants winning, the lottery is fiercely competitive. Last year, I finally won, which might not make me a permit expert perse, but it does make me very, very lucky.

The lottery opens on February 15, so if you want a camping permit in the Enchantments this summer, the time to plan is now!

When summer comes to a close in Washington, the weather turns and the Big Dark descends. Washington is beautiful year-round though, and the changing of the seasons shouldn't be an excuse to stay indoors. There is an abundance of trails you can explore in any season here in Washington. Whether you’re seeking serene lakes, dramatic waterfalls, coastal vistas, or mountain lookouts, there are a lot of easy hikes you can do in any season.

​I’ve compiled a list of nine accessible, (relatively) easy hikes you can enjoy throughout the year, perfect for families, beginners, or anyone wanting to explore Washington’s natural wonders.

Lake Wenatchee

Located near the quaint town of Leavenworth, Lake Wenatchee State Park features several easy trails, perfect for families or anyone hoping for a break from the busting city. If you go in the winter, you can snowshoe along the pristine shoreline and follow winding trails through the forest. In the summer, take a dip in the cool water or play along the sandy beach.

There are also a couple trails that are a bit more obscure and off the beaten path, including Hidden Lake Trail, which you can snowshoe or enjoy in the warmer summer months.

Wallace Falls

This iconic Washington hike is located in the Cascade foothills. It’s famous for its impressive waterfalls and lush forested landscape. The trail to the middle falls is considered easy and rewarding, with views of tumbling water and mossy trees. Wallace Falls State Park is open all year, and the waterfall’s flow is particularly dramatic during rainy months. I love the wooden bridges along the trail and the ambling views of the river. It’s a rewarding hike with gorgeous vantage points throughout. Personally, I like the middle falls lookout the best, but you can continue up to the upper falls by following a series of switchbacks.

Stats:
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5.6 miles roundtrip
1,300 feet elevation gain
A Discover Pass is required for parking.

Hole-in-the-Wall

The Hole-in-the-Wall trail is a coastal adventure suitable for all skill levels. Located on the Olympic Coast, this hike features sea stacks, tide pools, and the iconic rocky archway that gives the trail its name. It’s a great year-round destination, especially for those who enjoy ocean views and beachcombing.

It’s also a great place to camp, just be sure to check the tides. When the tide is out, you can explore tide pools and scramble up the rocky outcroppings. Remember, if you’re camping in the Olympic National Park, you’ll need a bear canister.

​Stats:
3.3 miles roundtrip
Mostly flat with little elevation gain
Established campsites are available
A toilet is located at the trailhead. There is a large parking lot.

Snow has started to blanket the mountains across Washington, and with those whimsical flakes comes an unfettered excitement for ski season. If you’re a Seattleite, you know the only way to get through the “Big Dark” is to either hibernate through the winter or get your ski gear out of the garage and head up to the mountains for buttery turns. Our family is the latter (although snuggling in a blanket all winter long doesn’t sound terrible).
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As soon as the ski slopes open, you can find us on the slopes - and those first turns may come sooner rather than later. Stevens Pass has set an approximate opening date for December 5. I know, I can’t believe it either! Winter is coming early this year.

If you’re a skier or snowboarder in the Pacific Northwest, you have a few options for a mountain home away from home – Snoqualmie Pass, Crystal or Stevens Pass.

Stevens Pass is where we spend most of our weekends throughout winter, but many families choose Snoqualmie Pass because it’s closest to Seattle (only about an hour). If you like outrageously long lines and the opportunity to pay the piper to cut lift lines, Crystal might be a good fit for you (sorry, Crystal loyalists).

For this post, I’m going to focus on Stevens Pass – and I promise this isn’t an ad.

Nestled in the heart of the Cascade Mountains, Stevens Pass offers diverse terrain, gorgeous views, and a welcoming community of skiers and snowboarders.

Here are the basics

With 1,125 acres to explore at Stevens Pass, there's something for everyone and all skill levels. From bunny hills to steep tree runs, you’ll find terrain that tests your limits. My little skiers love lapping Hogsback. There’s a run off Hogsback called Squirrel Trail. It’s a meandering, rolling path through trees with quirky side hits, and its winding aspects make it feel like you’re on a roller coaster. Parents beware – once you find this run, you’ll lap it all day.

Stevens Pass has a good mix of beginner, intermediate and expert runs. Daisy is a good place to start if you’re looking for mellow laps and beginner terrain. Skyline is a perfect step up, full of blues to cruise. You can push your comfort zone by heading up the mountain to Southern Cross and Double Diamond chair. You can find some chutes off 7th Heaven (If you know Nancy, you know Bobby) if you want to spike your adrenaline.

One of the coolest things about Stevens Pass is the night skiing. When the sun sets and the lights come on, the mountain transforms into a magical playground. Fewer crowds, crisp mountain air, and the thrill of skiing under the stars make night sessions unforgettable. For many locals (myself included), this is a highlight of the week—there’s nothing like squeezing in a few runs after work!

Ski Pass Information

If you’re considering a ski pass for the season, the Epic Local Ski Pass is a great option because it unlocks access to Stevens Pass and also lets you ski or ride up to 10 days combined at select world-class resorts such as Vail, Beaver Creek and Whistler Blackcomb. Every year, we splurge and head up to Whistler for a winter getaway. Why? Because the resort is unbelievable, and it’s perfect for adults and little rippers alike. Honestly, I can’t believe we live so close to such an incredible mountain. Whistler draws in tourists from all over the world, and we are lucky enough to be within driving distance.

It’s important to note that Epic Local Pass holders do not have access on designated peak dates. These are typically during holidays and busy weekends, so planning your trips around these times will help you maximize your pass and avoid the crowds.

New to skiing?

If skiing sounds intimidating, know you’re in good company. Getting to the mountain, making sure you have all the equipment and keeping spirits high (if you have kids) is enough to test anyone’s patience. With that said, here are some things to know:

1. Ski and snowboard lessons are available for kids 3 and up as well. You should book them in advance though. You can book reservations online or call to book at least 48 hours before your visit. 
2. You can rent equipment at Stevens Pass, but I recommend renting in advance.
3.  Lift tickets are limited, so they do sell out. Purchase tickets ahead of time and download your Mobile Lift Ticket on the My Epic app to skip the lines and go directly to the lifts.

What to wear and tips for kids

Skiing requires a lot of gear. I like to think of it as an investment in fun – it makes my credit card bill sting a little less.

Gear checklist (aside from skis, poles and boots):

• Wool base layers
• Puffy jacket
• Hardshell waterproof jacket
• Gortex ski pants or bib
• Gloves or mittens
• Helmet
• Neck gaiter

Additional items:

• Handwarmers
• Air tags to keep track of your little skiers on the mountain
• Copious amounts of sweets for when tantrums happen

Parking

Parking seems to be a pain point at every ski area in Washington. There is high demand and lots of people, which is a recipe for backups. Stevens Pass tried a reservation system for the 2024/2025 season – and it looks like it’s going to continue this year as well. So, book ahead for weekend trips and holidays.

We planned ahead and carpooled, which saved us some of the hassle. Just know before you go, parking isn’t going to be the most enjoyable experience. I recommend either going early to snag a spot or go late and take a spot from someone who shredded the morning powder.

Where to eat

There are lots of places to eat at Stevens Pass. Whether you want a grab and go snack, a sit-down meal or something in between, you’ll find it. The cafeteria in the main lodge is super convenient, offering soups, burgers, chicken strips and bowls.

If you’re looking for libations, the Foggy Google located in Tye Creek Lodge is a good option. Craving pizza? Head over to Iron Goat Pizzeria in the Pacific Crest Lodge.

And in case you need another reason to get an Epic pass, you get a discount on food. So, eat up! 

The Lofoten Islands in Norway are a fairytale come to life—dramatic, jagged mountains towering above turquoise waters, quaint fishing villages painted in cheerful pops of reds and yellows, and a culinary scene brimming with fresh seafood. When we booked our dream trip to Norway, we had peaks in our sights. For us, vacations aren’t relaxing getaways – they are excuses to explore and have a bit of type 2 fun. This trip was no different. We wanted to uncover hikes that would leave us breathless—and did they ever, both figuratively and literally. Hikes in Norway were like none we have experienced before. There wasn’t a switchback in sight to ease the elevation gain. The trails didn’t meander but rather went straight up the mountainsides. 
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For five days, we traveled around the Lofoten Islands in a camper van we affectionately named Betty White. It was an experience we will never forget.  ​

1. Reinebringen

Perhaps the most iconic hike in all of Lofoten, Reinebringen offers panoramic vistas over the village of Reine and the surrounding fjords. The trail is known for its relentless ascent—1,978 stone steps built by Sherpas from Nepal. The expertly placed steps take you efficiently to the top—and the payoff for the thigh-burning endeavor is extraordinary.

• Distance: 2.0 miles (3.2 km) round trip
• Elevation Gain: 1,480 feet (450 m)
• Trail Info: The hike starts just outside of Reine. Be prepared for a steep, step-filled climb. The summit ridge is narrow and can be crowded, so exercise caution, especially in wet weather.

Reaching the top at sunset, the world glows with golden light. It’s a short hike, and it’s absolutely worth every painstaking step. It’s popular for good reason.

When I signed up for my first triathlon, I honestly had no idea what I was getting into. Well, maybe that’s not true. I knew I’d need to swim, bike and run. I also knew I was a complete novice with a lot to learn.

To paint a clearer picture. Here's where my journey began:

The extent of my swimming experience was diving into a pool. I dove in college (very poorly), so I hard experience in water. I just didn't know how exactly to swim well. When I signed up for the triathlon, I couldn’t swim a lap. Don’t get me started on flip turns. I still don't know how to do one. When I swim laps, I slowly make my way to the end of the pool, touch the edge, and then literally turn my body around and kick off the wall to start another lap.

My road bike was strictly used for commuting. I bought it years ago to get to and from work. It's a beautiful bike, but I don't have a clue what I'm doing when it comes to gears.

Running was my best discipline, and even that felt hard. When I began, I was thrilled when I completed a 10k. I enjoy running, but miles haven't always been easy.

Something inside me wanted to push my limits though. I’ve always loved training, and a triathlon felt like a different kind of test. I needed a goal to reach - and a triathlon felt like a good challenge. 
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Here are a few things I learned along the way.

It's a Mental Game

One of the biggest lessons I learned is that racing is as much a mental game as it is a physical one. When my body wanted me to stop, I learned I could keep going. I constantly felt like I was negotiating with myself. “Keep going” became my mantra, repeating it to myself when my mind told me I should stop.

Trust me, you can keep going. I would make little bargains with that inner voice. "Just make it to the next stoplight," or "run for one more minute." I would always push more, and eventually, the negotiations got easier. I learned to shut the voice off all together.
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Brick Workouts are Essential 

I picked up a new vernacular during my training. Terms like brick workouts were completely foreign, but they are essential. When you’re training for a triathlon, you’re basically training three different disciplines simultaneously. Why train for one sport, when you can train for three?

Running right after biking felt awkward at first, but brick workouts made transitions smoother. I started off feeling like a drunken giraffe learning to walk for the first time. Eventually, I knew what to expect and could break through that initial discomfort. You learn what it feels like to start running on wobbly legs, how to steady your breathing after getting out of the water, and how to use different muscles at different points throughout the race. 

Don't Forget Strength Training

My training plan didn’t just include runs, swims, and bike rides. I incorporated strength training to build muscle. My muscles learned to function when they were tired. Honestly, I love lifting, but I shifted my routine just a bit. Before triathlon training, I wanted to build muscle, and so my workouts usually included heavy weights. During training, I focused more on functional movements and mobility. I shifted my mindset and didn't worry so much about upping the weight I could lift. Instead, I fatigued my muscles and incorporated cardio after.

Find the Right Race

My first race was a sprint triathlon. For me, that distance felt like a perfect introduction to the sport. I picked a sprint because it seemed attainable (500-yard swim, 17-mile bike and 5k run). I researched local triathlons and chose the Lake Tye Triathlon because the course looked beginner friendly – no swimming in currents, a flat bike course and a quick 3.1-mile loop around a lake.

Practice Like Race Day

Most triathlons don’t allow you to wear headphones, so get used to running without music. I started training with upbeat music tracks, but then I realized I wouldn’t have that motivation on race day.

The same is true for what you wear. I bought a triathlon suit to wear during the race, and I made sure to practice brick workouts wearing my new attire. i didn't want to feel stiff or awkward wearing something I hadn't broken in or learned how to move in.

One consideration is a wet suit. If you plan on swimming in a wet suit, I’d recommend practicing transitioning out of it. For my next race, I’m going to add that into my training plan. I like the idea of added buoyancy, so that’s one change I’m planning on making.

You Need a Support System

The reality is you’re going to need time to train. Life is already busy, so squeezing in running, swimming and bike rides aren’t always going to be easy. Be sure you have your loved ones on board before you sign up. If you can’t make time to work out, you’re going to fail. I felt very lucky to have a family cheering me on every step of the way.

Takeaways:

1. You can keep going when your mind wants to quit
2. Brick workouts are key
3. Strength training helps
4. Find the right race for you – and your strongest discipline
5. Practice like you race
6. Embrace the fun of a new challenge

​Signing up for my first triathlon was daunting at first, but it turned out to be one of the best experiences of my life. I found a new sport, much to my family’s chagrin (I’m only joking a little), and I’m so glad I did.
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I can’t wait for my next race.

The Enchantments, nestled in the heart of Washington's Cascade Mountains, are renowned for their dramatic peaks, pristine alpine lakes and rugged terrain. But for a few short weeks in the fall, another sight takes center stage: larches. The otherworldly beauty of The Enchantments gets set aglow as larch trees transform.

What makes the larch trees enchanting is their ability to hide in plain sight; their usual green needles suddenly begin to turn, like a mood ring shifting color. Larches are deciduous conifers, shedding their needles in the fall. As winter descends, it’s like an internal alarm goes off. Their needles (which feel soft to the touch) light up the landscape in vibrant yellows and golds, accentuating the jagged granite peaks. Then their needles fall and litter the snowy ground.

Larches only grow in the high alpine (usually above 6,000 feet), so getting to them can be quite a challenge. I think it adds to their splendor though. The elusive beauties make you work to stand among them. You’ll have to brave steep climbs, rocky trails and thigh-burning elevation gain. But – it’s worth it!

The Enchantments’ through hike is not for the faint of heart (you can read my guide below if you're planning the trek), but it’s one of the best larch hikes in Washington. Unless you’re lucky enough to snag a camping permit that is. Then you can enjoy the enchanting views for days without the 22-mile slog. Thousands apply every year, and only a select few actually win the lottery though. I still can’t believe we got a permit during larch madness. We hit an almost perfect weather window and got to see the mountainsides covered in glowing larches. We stayed for three nights in the Core and explored as much of the area as we could. It was freezing and breezy at night, but it was an experience I’ll never forget.

Permits in the Core area of The Enchantments is coveted – I think the stats are pretty stark. I’ve heard only around 6% of the people who apply for a permit get one. 

My favorite places to see the Larches in the Core area are Inspiration Lake, Perfection Lake and Lake Viviane. My tip for hikers if you’re aiming for the Core is to make your way all the way through. If you climb up Aasgard, go down toward Lake Viviane and then come back through. Personally, I hate the hike out from Snow Lake, so I’d go back down Aasgard Pass.

The Enchantments are one of the best places in the Pacific Northwest to see larches, but there are other trails that offer similar splendor. I’ve included a list below.

• Blue Lake
• Cutthroat Lake
• Clara and Marion Lakes
• Lake Ingalls
• Goat Peak Lookout

The Enchantments, located in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness in Washington, is a hiker's paradise. The jagged peaks, Gatorade blue alpine lakes and other-worldly splendor draws crowds every year. It's a bucket list destination for many (myself included). This area is my favorite in all of Washington state - the North Cascades being a very close second.

To camp in the Enchantments, you need to secure a coveted permit, which can be obtained through a lottery system. There's a catch though! The lottery is exactly what it sounds like - thousands enter, and nearly everyone loses. I think I read somewhere (so don't quote me), the odds of scoring a core permit, which means you can camp anywhere throughout the Enchantments, is around 2%. That's not very good odds. Every year, the outdoor community holds their breath, and most of the time, we commiserate together. 

Then, the planning begins.

Since getting a permit is nearly impossible to score, many opt to still go, but they do an absolutely grueling through-hike. From start to finish, the hike is more than 18 miles (I clocked 22 miles when I did it, so expect it to be longer than you thought). You'll also gain around 4,500 feet in elevation if you start at Stuart Lake trailhead. It's worth it though! I would recommend doing this more popular route, Stuart Lake to Snow Lake, because you'll save yourself some elevation. Personally, I also very much dislike the trail from Snow Lake to the core. 

After losing the lottery again and again, I decided (like many do) to just do it. So, I set out on my birthday last year in hopes of finally checking the Enchantments off my hiking bucket list. 

Was it amazing? Yes! Are there things I wish I would have known before going? Also, yes!

Here are a few things I wish I would have known before I went, so you don't make the same mistakes I did. 

Firstly, if you go in early summer, there will be snow! I think many people see photos and videos on Instagram and don't realize the high alpine environment doesn't thaw out until late summer. Don't be fooled. The lakes are gorgeous, but they are also covered in snow until July. If you're hoping for crystal clear lakes and clear trails, wait until late July or August. 

If you go too early, the pass you will have to take on, known as Aasgard Pass, will be a little spicey. I'll get to this a little later, but it's very important you know the route before you head out. There are some hidden dangers, especially ascending up Aasgard Pass. If you don't read any further, remember this - please stay left when climbing up Aasgard Pass! If you go during the early season, you will likely need micro spikes, an ice ax and gaiters. This gear will add to your pack, but they are necessary if you want to be safe.

Speaking of gear - let's start there. 

Weight is important. When you are packing, ask yourself one question, "Is this item necessary?" Trust me, you might want to rethink some of those heavier items. A light set up is going to be your friend. Your knees are going to be hurting around mile 13. The elevation going up isn't what's going to get you (if you have a similar experience as I did), it's the pounding your knees will take when you descend from Lake Viviane. A lighter pack is going to make for a better experience. 

With that said, there are items you need. 

Just to be clear, always pack the 10 essentials. Items you could (and probably should) leave behind are stoves, camping chairs, tripods, snowshoes, etc. I packed my stove so I could enjoy coffee by the lakes. The reality is, you won't want to linger very long because the hike takes the whole day. I ended up wishing I would have left it behind. A coffee sounded good, but not that good. It wasn't too much weight, but every ounce counts. 

The things that were absolutely necessary for me were a map and micro spikes. I ventured out on June 20 and there was considerable snow, both going up Aasgard and throughout the core. I also highly recommend a satellite communicator. I'll link the one I use below. The inReach provides the safety blanket I need on longer hikes. I know if I get into trouble, I'll be able to call for help. 

When you are hiking through the core, it's easy to get turned around if you don't know where you're going. There are cairns that mark the way through the core, but they can be difficult to find if you don't know where to look. Some may also be covered in snow, so it's best to know your way. I poured over maps before the hike, and I downloaded a copy to take with me. It was helpful, especially when I got to Perfection Lake. 

Water is usually the heaviest item in your pack, so bring a filtration system. There are lots of water sources along the way, which means you won't have to worry about running out of water. 

There also isn't much sun protection in the core. I'd recommend layers, sunscreen, lip protection, sunglasses and a hat. One of the most beautiful aspects of the core is how barren it is, like walking on the moon. Jagged peaks surround you, and it's something you have to see to believe. The entire time I was in the core, I had a huge smile on my face. I just kept thinking to myself, "how is this real?"

Lessons learned

You often hear about how difficult Aasgard Pass is, but I honestly didn't it find it that strenuous. You'll gain about 2,000 feet in under a mile, but it's over in no time, and the sights along the way are literally jaw-dropping. Just pace yourself. My motto when I'm climbing is always the same: "one foot in front of the other." It reminds me to keep going. That and I also say to myself, "objects in motion stay in motion." It's like a little inside joke to myself. I know if I stop for too long, it'll be harder to keep going.

I don't think I can mention this enough, so here we go again, but DO NOT GO RIGHT up Aasgard Pass. Stay to the left of the rock formation in the middle. There is a hidden waterfall, and people have died falling into it. Also, scree is pretty common when climbing up. Be aware of falling rocks. I wore a helmet just in case, and I was glad I had it on. 

The hardest part of the hike for me was the hike out from Lake Viviene. It is absolutely brutal on your joints - and it's so long. The constant, prolonged pounding really did a number on me. I think trekking poles probably would have made this section more enjoyable, but that's a personal preference you can think about when you're planning your trip. It's not a nice, mellow descent. It's long, jarring steps through rocks and boulders. It will take more time than you think!

The second worst part was being able to see the parking lot at Snow Lake from the trail. Once you can see it, you're still nowhere near it. Those switchbacks are a terrible tease. Don't say I didn't warn you.

Training hikes

To get ready for this hike, I did a lot of stairs and elevation hikes. I picked hikes that would really push my quads, and I think that worked pretty well. You'll need to be patient on this hike and also prepared for a little pain. 

If you can find a great stair climb, do it! I love Richmond Beach because there are plenty of hills to run and a get staircase at the Saltwater Park. 

Logistics

If you are doing the through-hike, you'll park and end at different trailheads. Stuart Lake trailhead and Snow Lake trailhead are miles apart, so you'll need to think through how you'll get from one to the other. I was solo and hitch-hiked back to my car, but I probably wouldn't recommend doing that.

If you have multiple people in your party, leave one care at each trailhead. 

If you do it solo like I did, consider having a friend pick you up or coordinate a shuttle. Reservations can be made in advance. 

I got to the trailhead around 4:30 a.m. and started out around 4:45 a.m. It was perfect because I ended when it was still light out. I really enjoyed not having to sit in the parking lot in the dark. In total, it took me about 13 hours from trailhead to trailhead. I did stop a lot to take photos though. Your time may vary - slower or faster. I saw plenty of trail runners, which was astounding. I aspire to be them. 

Another thing you will want to do is read trip reports. Learn from others and take note. You can read about conditions, trail issues, road closures, etc. by visiting WTA.com and reading recent trip reports. Don't skip this step! Knowledge is power in the backcountry.

Remember to leave no trace and have fun when you're hitting the trails. It's such a fun trip, and I'm really proud of myself for completing this hike. I highly recommend attempting it if you're in good shape and want a challenge.

If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to reach out and ask. I honestly can't wait to go back and do it again!

Items I'd consider bringing: 
Garmin inReach - a great way to stay connected for check-ins and to have in case of emergency.
HydraPax water filtration - as I mentioned, you will not want to carry all your water on you. It'll make your pack way too heavy.

​*these are affiliate links